Hello everyone, I’m Lai.
I came to Takamatsu for the once-every-three-years Setouchi Triennale, and I’m
fortunate to be helping out at 777 Guesthouse. During my free time outside of work,
I’d love to share with you my island-hopping adventures!
On my first trip to Inujima, I set out with my roommate who invited me to go
together. Among the nearby islands, Inujima is one of the few that cannot be
reached directly from Takamatsu Port — you need to transfer via Teshima,
Naoshima, or Shodoshima.
From 777 Guesthouse, we took one stop from Kataharamachi Station (right next
door) to Takamatsu-Chikkō Station. From there, it’s just a 3-minute walk to
Takamatsu Port. We took a ferry from Takamatsu to Naoshima, then transferred via
Teshima to get to Inujima — the entire journey takes about two hours.
To catch the connecting ferries on time, we woke up extra early. However, even
though we rushed straight to the ticket counter after disembarking, the tickets were
already sold out! We ended up having to wait three hours for the next ferry. So if
you’re planning to go to Inujima, be sure to check the ferry schedule and plan your
time carefully!
Inujima is a small island with an area of only about 0.54 square kilometers. It once
prospered due to its copper refining and quarrying industries. However, with the
burst of Japan’s economic bubble, the island’s once-thriving scenery vanished within
just a decade, leaving behind only the remnants of the old copper refinery. It wasn’t
until the rise of the Setouchi Triennale that this long-silent island began to show signs
of life once again.
Inujima Seirensho Art Museum: A Stunning Transformation
of Industrial Heritage
The most iconic spot on the island is undoubtedly the Inujima Seirensho Art
Museum. This museum was transformed from the remains of a copper refinery
dating back to the Meiji era, preserving its original chimneys and brick structures.
(Admission is free with a Setouchi Triennale Passport, but photography is strictly
prohibited inside the exhibition spaces!)
Upon entering, you’ll find yourself in a dimly lit corridor where you can only follow
the light ahead. As you get closer, you’ll realize that the light isn’t actually straight in
front of you. This part is my favorite artwork on Inujima! I won’t spoil too much—
better to leave the mysterious surprise for you to experience in person.
The museum isn’t very large, but each piece is full of meaning, weaving together the
rise and fall of the copper refining industry’s history. It’s definitely worth taking your
time to appreciate.
After stepping into the outdoor space, don’t forget to look up and head toward the
stone stairs that resemble a floating castle in the sky. Climb to the top of the refinery
to overlook the factory ruins sleeping here, the mysterious lake, and the chimneys
covered in lush green vines.
Follow the signs and continue forward to take a counterclockwise loop back to the
entrance. Wander through the crumbling walls and ruins, feeling the traces of time
left by those who came before.
Besides the art museum, Inujima’s “House Project” is also a must-see! Originally
launched on Naoshima, this project was later implemented on Inujima as well. It
aims to integrate artworks into abandoned houses on the island, breaking the
boundaries of traditional museums and bringing art into the daily lives of local
residents, thus narrowing the distance between viewers and the artworks.
Because Inujima is small in size, most of the “House Project” artworks are small
outdoor pieces, making it easy and relaxing to explore them all on a leisurely walk!
Spending about 3 to 4 hours on the island is usually enough. A quick reminder: you
can only get around on foot, and be sure to pick up a boarding ticket at the
information center right after you get off the boat. It’s also a good idea to buy your
return ferry ticket before you start exploring for peace of mind!
2025/5 Lai
