Hello everyone, this is Lai.
Today, we’re heading to one of the most popular islands in the Seto Inland Sea after
Naoshima—Teshima! It’s hard to imagine that this now art- and nature-filled island
was once known as the “island of waste,” due to the illegal dumping of industrial
waste. After years of determined efforts by local residents, the final batch of waste
was removed on March 28, 2017, returning a clean home to the islanders. With the
Setouchi Triennale, Teshima has embraced its unique history and created art rooted
in the themes of land and memory—truly becoming an “island of abundance.”
From Takamatsu Port, you can reach Teshima’s Ieura Port via high-speed ferry only.
Because the boats are small and capacity is limited, it’s best to arrive early to ensure
you get a seat! The trip takes about 40 minutes, and once on the island, you can get
around by bus or bicycle. However, since the terrain is hillier than Naoshima, electric
bikes are highly recommended! (Tip: some shops accept online reservations; if not,
try to catch the earliest ferry to get a bike on-site.)
Teshima Yokoo House: Step Into Yokoo Tadanori’s Surreal World
Located just by Ieura Port, this vibrant art space is a collaboration between architect
Yuko Nagayama and legendary artist Tadanori Yokoo. Set within a renovated traditional house, bold red pigments and stained glass divide the themes of life anddeath. Inside, you’ll find vivid artworks, including a bathroom completely coated in reflective silver paint—a striking and surreal visual experience.
Kō District: Art in Harmony with Nature
Fans of Shinro Ohtake, whose works also appear on Naoshima, will find a new side of
him in Teshima’s Needle Factory—a simpler, grand wooden structure featuring a
numbered ship’s hull, highlighting the concept of “local materials, local stories.”
A short ride toward the sea brings you to this year’s official Triennale cover artwork,
Place for Sea Dreamers, a 6-meter steel bench inspired by fishing nets, driftwood,
animals, and boats. Another highlight is Memory of the Loom, a piece by Chiharu
Shiota, who connects three weaving machines and an old house using her signature
red threads—symbolizing Teshima’s woven cultural memories.
Teshima Art Museum: A Space Where Nature Becomes the Art
Once you reach the cliffside path known locally as “The Road That Dives into the
Sea,” you’ll know you’re near the Teshima Art Museum, a must-see.
Despite its name, this museum holds no typical artworks. Inside the elliptical, shell-
like concrete space designed by Ryue Nishizawa, you’ll find only droplets of water
forming and flowing across the floor, the sound of footsteps, sunlight, wind, and
birdsong.
This space offers a deeply meditative experience—visitors instinctively fall silent and
spend hours simply being present. With no photography allowed, it’s the perfect
chance to put away your phone and experience the healing blend of art and nature.
Les Archives du Cœur: Hear the Pulse of Humanity
Following the downhill path near the museum toward Karato Port, you’ll find Les
Archives du Cœur, or The Heartbeat Archive.
In a darkened room, heartbeats from over 90,000 people around the world are
stored and played. With each beat, a light flickers in sync—an emotional, intimate
way to connect with others across time and space. You can even record your own
heartbeat here and become part of the artwork.
Shima Kitchen: Island Flavors with Heart
To understand Teshima through taste, visit Shima Kitchen, a community-run
restaurant designed by architect Abe Ryo. Local residents transform seasonal island
ingredients into heartwarming dishes in a cozy wooden space. This is food as art—
rooted in the land and full of soul. Advance reservations are highly recommended.
Teshima is an island that invites you to slow down and rethink the relationship
between life and art. Its artworks are not just for viewing—they are deeply entwined
with the island’s recovery and the everyday lives of its residents.
Art here is not just something to admire but something to participate in. If you’re
heading to the Setouchi Triennale, make sure to include Teshima in your itinerary—a
small island truly healed by art and nature.
2025/5 Lai
