Hello everyone, I’m Lai.
When we talk about the Setouchi Triennale, we simply can’t leave out Naoshima!
Even before the Triennale officially began, the Benesse Corporation had already
brought art to this small island, laying the foundation for what the festival would
later become. It takes about an hour by ferry from Takamatsu Port, and once you
spot Yayoi Kusama’s iconic red pumpkin on the pier, you’ll know you’ve arrived at
Miyanoura Port!
To get around Naoshima, I recommend renting a bicycle or taking the local bus.
Electric bikes are limited, so it’s best to reserve one online in advance. If you don’t
have a reservation, try to take an earlier ferry and try your luck at the port! By the
way, many of the transport vehicles on the island are covered in Yayoi Kusama’s
signature polka-dot designs—super cute!
Naoshima’s art sites are generally divided into three main areas: around Miyanoura
Port, the Benesse House Museum area, and the Honmura Art House Project. Some
places, like the Chichu Art Museum, “Kinza,” and “Minamidera” from the Art House
Project, require advance reservations and are not included in the Art Passport.
Booking online in advance will also save you some money compared to on-site
tickets!
After arriving, we visited Kusama’s Red Pumpkin, Sou Fujimoto’s “Naoshima
Pavilion” (fun fact: he also designed the Expo 2025 Osaka Grand Roof!), and Shinro
Ohtake’s public bathhouse I
♥
湯 (“I Love Yu”). The bathhouse is a real working
sento, but is open for art viewing during specific hours. Even just seeing the bold,
colorful exterior gives you a glimpse into Ohtake’s style. If you’re into his work, don’t
miss his other pieces like the Haisha (Dentist House) in the Art House Project, the
Megijima Elementary School, and the Teshima Needle Factory.
The Art House Project in Honmura: Where art becomes part of
daily life
Located on the opposite side of the island from Miyanoura, Honmura was once the
main residential area and still preserves many old buildings. Artists saw potential
here and started the Art House Project, transforming vacant houses into art spaces.
The idea is to bring art out of the museum and into everyday life, inviting even the
locals to participate in the creative process.
One of my personal favorites is Go’o Shrine designed by Hiroshi Sugimoto. It was
built on the ruins of an actual abandoned shrine. From the outside, it looks like a
simple shrine with glass steps, but if you walk down a narrow path to the right, you’ll
find an underground chamber where those glass steps become the only light
source—leading your eyes to a stunning view of the sea and sky framed perfectly like
a living painting. Absolutely breathtaking.
Another highlight is the Ando Museum, also part of the Art House Project. It
beautifully blends traditional wooden architecture with Tadao Ando’s signature
concrete design. Inside, you’ll find sketches and models of his architectural works in
Naoshima and beyond. Even if you’re not an architecture nerd, you’ll be impressed
by his distinctive vision. As you walk through Honmura, you’ll encounter art around
every corner—installations, paintings, and buildings that invite you into the island’s
stories.
Benesse House Area: A haven for contemporary art lovers
If you’re looking to explore works by world-renowned artists and architects in one
day, this is the place. The area around the Benesse House Museum, Chichu Art
Museum, and Lee Ufan Museum sits along a gentle hillside facing the Seto Inland
Sea. These spaces make brilliant use of natural light and open areas, creating a
meditative experience where architecture and nature seamlessly blend.
Another must-see: Yayoi Kusama’s Yellow Pumpkin, quietly perched on a pier. You
can spot it glowing in the distance as you approach. Fun fact—if you visit during
typhoon season, staff will actually move the pumpkin to safety so it doesn’t get
swept away!
Naoshima is a place where art connects the past with the present, where nature and
culture exist in harmony. As someone who loves art, even after visiting twice, I still
feel like there’s more to see. Make sure to give yourself plenty of time to explore if
you’re an art lover too!
Also—great news! After May 31st, Naoshima’s brand-new art museum is scheduled
to open. So if you’re planning to visit during the summer or autumn session of the
Triennale, don’t miss this exciting new venue!
2025/5 Lai
