2025 Setouchi Triennale・Ogijima:Unexpected Encounters with Cats and Artin a Sloped Maze

Hello everyone, it’s Lai.
After exploring Megijima in my last post, my next stop is Ogijima, just a 20-minute
ferry ride away! Compared to Megijima, Ogijima has a more dramatic, hilly terrain,
with houses stacked along narrow winding paths. Walking through the island feels a
lot like wandering the alleys of Jiufen in Taiwan! And with cats outnumbering people,
it’s no surprise that this place is often called a “Cat Island” — a paradise for feline
lovers who’ll definitely find themselves enchanted

“The Soul of Ogijima”: A Tourist Center Built with Language
The very first structure that greets you after stepping off the ferry is not only
Ogijima’s tourist center, but also a piece of Setouchi Triennale art! Its hollowed-out
roof is designed with letters and scripts from multiple languages, representing a
welcoming gateway to the island. Calmly perched by the water, it stands quietly as if
patiently awaiting every visitor’s arrival.

“Walking Ark”: A Mountain Marching Toward Hope
This sculpture, set a distance away from the port, was intentionally placed facing the
northeast of Japan. It is said that the artist wanted it to carry a message of hope in
remembrance of those affected by the 2011 Tōhoku earthquake. From the side, it

looks like a mountain with legs, slowly walking toward the sea. When viewed head-
on from the front of the piece, the mountain-like shape still holds — an intriguing shift in perspective!

“Urushi House”: Everyday Island Life Painted with Light and
Shadow

This installation transforms an old traditional house into a gallery using urushi
(Japanese lacquer) as its theme. Each room expresses a different concept, mainly
through color. The most unforgettable part for me was the white room. As sunlight
streamed in, I slid open a door facing the window to reveal a surprise: a warm
orange bamboo screen glowing with natural light. When I turned back to the
window, I realized — that very orange glow mirrored the sunset outside. It was
breathtaking.
Thanks to its hilly landscape, Ogijima has many cozy cafés and restaurants with
ocean or sunset views. The island is also known for its octopus fishing, which means
fresh and delicious octopus dishes are everywhere!
I highly recommend Kaisei Shokudo, a local eatery right next to the port run by a
fisherman. The owner cheerfully tells you to make your own change, giving the place
an incredibly warm, down-to-earth vibe. His top recommendation? The deep-fried
octopus tempura — crispy, tender, and addictive. I’m still thinking about it now!

Ogijima moves at its own slow, peaceful rhythm. It’s a perfect place to spend a whole
afternoon strolling, discovering hidden art pieces, and soaking in everyday island life.
If you’re already planning a trip to Megijima, don’t forget that they share the same
ferry line — you can easily do both in one day and experience the soft charm of cats
and the sea on this magical little island.
2025/5 Lai

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